Day 2: Orisson to Roncesvalles/Roncevaux

Day 2 was much more challenging! At 16km, the track climbed from an elevation of 750m up to the highest point of Col de Lepoeder at 1450m and back down to Roncesvalles at 950m.

The wind at the higher elevations was extreme. I felt so exposed walking along the track, and at times the wind would push me almost over; it was actually pretty scary. There was also snow on the track at times. This meant that I didn’t have a chance to safely stop. I walked passed a cross marking the spot where a pilgrim died making the mountain cross two seasons ago; I can see how things could go very wrong very quickly. It is supposed to be the toughest part of the whole Camino, and for any Martin Sheen fans it is where his character’s son died in The Way. I was glad to start the steep ascent into Roncesvalles, which was through one of the largest remaining beech forests in Europe and felt very protected after the morning.

I’m not sure when I crossed the border into Spain, but apparently there is a cattle grid marking the spot (very anti-climactic). Regardless, almost all of the names and signs have been in Spanish and French. It has been interesting to see that local communities do not define themselves as French or Spanish, but rather as Basque or Navarrese, cultural groups with their own very distinct cuisine and language, and a long history of fighting.

Roncesvalles was a beautiful town; it has a population of less than 100 and has been receiving “all pilgrims – sick and well, Catholics, Jews, pagans, heretics and vagabonds” since the 12th century. The pilgrim accommodation is attached to the very grand, austere church and used to act as a pilgrim’s hospital. It is run by volunteers and houses 120+ pilgrims in one room. The town consists of the albergue (pilgrim accomodation), the church, a chapel and two small hotels.

I had a really nice pilgrim’s dinner, and am loving that unlimited red wine is included in literally anything you buy! A fellow pilgrim, Shae, a 65 year old Texan yoga teacher, described the Camino as “a never-ending picnic”…

Snow capped peaks in the distance

A very icy track

Beech trees for days

Albergue in Roncesvalles